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Time for Twelve

Jeff Osaka creates a fresh LoDo dining experience

Joshua Wolpe, DDN Staff Writer

Monday, November 10, 2008

 


A restaurant’s name can tell a whole story, or leave the impression there’s nothing to tell. 

Chef Jeff Osaka is fresh on the Denver scene, having moved here three months ago, but with an eye on the Mile High City for much longer. 

His contemporary restaurant, Twelve, is located in the Ballpark Neighborhood District downtown, and its name defines Osaka’s seasonal approach to the flavors of modern American cuisine.

Twelve is named for the number of months of the year, each of which brings a new menu and new flavors. It’s constantly evolving with the freshest organic, local and gourmet ingredients available in their peak seasons.


Upscale and warm

The restaurant’s space feels open and uncluttered, and the bar has a vintage feel to it. Osaka discovered the location on Craigslist, of all places, and knew it was right when he came to see it.

“I saw the space and I immediately saw what it could be,” he said. “In this situation, you have to be able to use your imagination and envision the potential.”

There is some Denver culinary history to Twelve’s location. It has been reincarnated three times – from a fried chicken and barbeque joint to Manny’s Smokehouse to Kokopelli’s. Twelve began its own tradition last week when it opened on Tuesday night.


Modern American

The type of cuisine that Osaka specializes in, modern American, has so many possible interpretations to those of us without a restaurant background. Allow him to elaborate.

“Its basic foundation is French cooking with American influence,” Osaka said. “We are such a melting pot of cultures, and we incorporate different aspects of many of them. A dish could have ginger but it’s not Asian, or it could have prosciutto but it’s not Italian.”

The menu’s adaptability is displayed in the seasonal cuisine. Winter’s months may feature wild game and root vegetables; spring brings choices with more “earthliness;” summer offers the coolness of melons and ripe stone fruit; and autumn may focus on the vibrancy of heirloom tomatoes with colors that echo the changing leaves.

Twelve has a full bar, including an extensive and eclectic wine list to complement any meal. The wine list will focus on the efforts of smaller, more artisanal wineries, including those from the local Colorado region.


Honed skills from many kitchens

Osaka has nearly two decades of experience in the restaurant industry and has cooked with renowned chefs in San Francisco, Los Angeles and Las Vegas, as well as running kitchens in Jackson Hole and opening his own place, Chloe, back in Los Angeles.

He is excited to make his mark in Denver and, from the looks of Twelve, he is well on his way.


Twelve Restaurant

WEB SITE AND PHONE: www.twelverestaurant.com 303-293-0287

WHERE: 2233 Larimer St.

HOURS: Dinner is served Tuesday through Saturday from 6 to 10 p.m.

 

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